🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.