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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.